I've long been afraid of power tools. The odds of me sawing off one or several of my fingers always seemed excessively high, particularly since I tend to get jumpy around loud noises. Still, as a person prone to creating, this becomes limiting, and limitations annoy me. So I boldly signed up for a woodworking class.
Over six weeks, we worked on three different projects. The first of these was a cutting board, and involved using most of the biggest and scariest tools. After a short overview on safety (use the eye protection glasses and ear protection and remember to turn on the sawdust collection systems) we got straight into it with processing rough wood (which is to say, making them into flat boards with right angles).
The first machine up was a jointer, which creates 90 degree edges if you run your wood through two sides. It's loud, but reasonably unintimidating as you use pushers to move the wood through, so the odds of hands near blades is small. The jointer gives you flat edges that make it easier when you move on to the planer.
The planer - also loud - takes tiny bits off with each pass through until the two opposite side are flat and parallel. You can set the height you want to for the final piece as well. It's not speedy, but it's effective.
The miter saw and table saws are where I get more nervous - large blades, right there. The miter, most often used for cross-grain cuts, you bring the blade on a swing arm down on your piece. On the table saw, as the name suggests, you move your piece over the blade built into the table. The table saw at the Maker Space studio had an impressive safety feature where if it sensed skin, it would immediately lock the blade -- so you might get a scratch, but you would not lose your fingers. You would be out the cost of the blade replacement though, as you need to put in a whole new cartridge if the blade locks. Aside from fingers, kickback is an issue if you're holding the piece of wood in such as way that the energy of the saw lifts it in an unexpected direction. This is not good, and somewhat alarming (yes, I found out, and quickly corrected). Like the jointer, you use pushers to move the wood through, keeping the blade well away from your hands.
After getting the general process for how to process wood (one way - there are many) using the joiner and planer, we got to choose from processed boards and think about what kind of pattern we wanted in our cutting boards. I chose three types of wood (cherry, walnut and something white - birch, I think) and cut the boards into strips using the table saw (!). I kept my fingers, despite being awash in nervous sweat.
Once we had all the pieces (of various heights - the rule was everything had to be a minimum of an inch high, and the multiple pieces together had to be at least 12 inches across, but length and height varied), we got out the wood glue and went to town with a gluing fest and vices. By the end of the first class, the cutting board in process looked like this:
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Glued cutting board busy drying |
The width the individual pieces and the board overall would stay the same, but the length of the board and height changed the next week as we finished the project.
In the next class, we freed the board from its vices and used the miter saw or a jig on the table saw to make the cross cuts to remove the jagged ends, and then got to work with lots and lots of passes through the planer to get each piece flat and the same height.
From there, we moved on to the table router which, for those who aren't in the know (e.g., me until recently) is how you make rounded edges. It's also another opportunity to have kick back and wounded fingers if you're not careful (though I and my class remained unscathed). If you move your piece too slowly on the router, you get burn marks (which you'll have to sand out) and if you move too quickly, it might chip out, so you have to find the Goldilocks speed. I didn't find that, so mine had some burn marks. The router is a bit persnickety and getting the bit at the right height and keeping the wood on the bearing took a little doing.
And then there was sanding. We were short electric hand sanders, so I did a lot of my sanding by hand (which wasn't the worst in some ways, as it is quieter, though my sanding wasn't the best). You go through three types of sandpapers to increasing higher grades. Then do a quick wet down to lift the grain, let it dry and sand some more. So much sanding.
Because one of the pieces of my cutting board had a mild split in it wood has character), I also learned the sand & glue trick - add a little sawdust (you'll have plenty) to wood glue and it fills in quite nicely so you'll barely see it.
And then there is the best part: once everything is the shape you want and smoothed by sanding, you get to put the finish on. For cutting boards, food grade mineral oil is a good option. We slathered them up and watched all the texture and grain suddenly come to life. Then we rubbed still more oil into the thirsty boards, and left let them dry.
By the time I got the board home the following week, the final product looked like this:
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Finished cutting board ready for use in my kitchen (along with two house plants)
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The cutting board is a great first project, using a great many tools and creating something that feels satisfyingly finished at the end. Care includes occasionally oiling it with butcher block conditioner (food grade mineral oil and beeswax) and never ever putting it in your dishwasher.